fwords

Butter of 69

Tab For Two: Buttermilk Channel
Address: 524 Court Street, Brooklyn, NY 11231

What to wear, Who's there: "I like how everything's yellow," The Tapeworm told me, referring to the pale lemon-painted walls inside Buttermilk Channel. "We could be in the Hamptons." With its crisp, clean decor and sun-drenched windows on two walls, the restaurant does feel brighter than any other establishment on the block, which is perhaps why Sean Penn chose it as a location for his last movie. The vibe is convivial, with patrons sipping cups of complimentary hot cider on the sidewalk while they wait and bartenders serving as many meals at the counter as the waiters turn tables.

What They're Serving: If you're looking for on-trend, locally-inspired, heart-warming food, Buttermilk has got it to spare. From market radishes and bibb letuce dressed in a light anchovy vinaigrette to perfectly poached eggs breaking over buttermilk biscuits, everything tastes like it was just picked from the farm five minutes ago and prepared by hands that truly love the ingredients. The wines all come from the North Fork, the Finger Lakes or the Hudson Valley. The beers represent New York's best with Brooklyn Brewery and Sixpoint making appearances on draft. You can't help but feel pride in your state, soaking up riches like these.

We Effing Loved: I was bowled over by the still-warm cider doughnut sprinkled with confectioner's sugar that crunches just so. To me, it tasted like fall and I could have left happy with only that in my stomach. But it was impossible to stop sipping the Star of the Sea Bloody Mary, which had the perfect amount of horseradish, was spiked with gin and came topped with an oyster that we had watched get shucked to order. This is what Sundays were made for.

 

 

The Star of the Sea and some damn good coffee.

The doughnut I can't stop thinking about.

My starter salad, fresh from the garden.

Eggs Huntington. Sigh.

The Tapeworm's French Toast with Pecans and Bourbon. Holy Breakfast.

Big Pimpin'

Tab For Two: Momofuku Ssäm Bar
Address: 207 2nd Ave. New York, NY 10003

What to wear, Who's there: As I mentioned in a previous post, recently after attending a NYWFF event The Tapeworm graciously offered to take me out to Momofuku Ssäm Bar. It was around 7:45/8 p.m. on a Saturday night. We were coming straight from a seminar, Trader Joe Bags in tow, dekked out in jeans and our usual stylishly messy hair. Quickly scanning the other couples waiting with a glass of wine or OB beer in the adjacent Momofuku Milk Bar, I realized that was pretty much the uniform. Sweet.

What They're Serving: If you like slightly manipulated Korean food with a dash of down-home American cheekiness, Ssäm Bar is a more than satisfactory abode-away-from-abode. Dishes appeal to both progressive palates (sea urchin with red beet tapioca, whipped tofu and toasted sesame seeds sprinkled on top) as well as the straight-up carnal (steamed Chinese buns sandwiching rich, fatty pork belly inside). And thank God. Because only the most interesting and succulent of comfort foods could make one forget they're sitting on backless bar stools or benches for two hours.

We Effing Loved: Um, everything. "There's something about this food that makes me want to have sex," a diner stated after taking a bite of skate. Maybe it's the dizzying contrast of textures on one plate. Maybe it's the kick of heat given to Kimchi Oysters that sets pulses racing. Or maybe it's the anticipation that builds when you are breaking down a salad with both poached egg and crunchy rice wafer and cranberry beans. Whatever the reason, we go gaga for everything we eat here. So much so, that fwords went back to Milk Bar one week later for assorted cookies and dulce de leche cake (the compost cookie is effing nuts!), and fwords AND The Tapeworm are planning to return for lunch again this Saturday. It's that addictive.

Kick Me Kimchi (Hurts So Good)

Sea Urchin Amazingness

Duck to Blow Your Mind

 

Take Your Pants Off Skate*

*No these are not the actual name of the dishes. But maybe they should be.

Girls Singing

With a drastic change in the weather last week, as if someone had literally pulled the curtain down on summer, people all around me seemed to be abuzz about what fall foods they can't wait to dive into. But I say not so fast, Charlie Brown! I mean, weren't we just talking about Lobster Rolls two seconds ago? Why can't I continue to crave one of those bad boys despite the downturn in temperature?

Apparently, I am not alone. Cooling winds did not deter Jeffrey Chodorow from recently opening Ed's Chowder House—a seafood asylum that offers the sea-shack staple. And Luke's Lobster, a tiny restaurant that will be located on 7th Street between the two Caracas, isn't even due to open its doors until sometime in October. The big buzz about the latter is that they will offer $14 lobster rolls. Kind of a steal in these parts. But if you don't work, live, or hang out in the East Village, I've got another mouth-watering alternative:

Tab For Two: Xie Xie
Address: 645A 9th Avenue
New York, NY 10036

What to wear, Who's there: This sliver of a sandwich shop seats 24 on a warm day, when the storefront opens onto the sidewalk. How many people will fit once that wall is permanently shuttered to the cold remains to be seen—but make sure you are one of them. Designed in varying shades of violet with a sprinkling of three-dimensional, day-glo fortune cookies on one wall adding a bit of playful pop, the decor is minimalist yet evokes a Japanese superkawaii sensibility. Customers range from buttoned-down men ordering one of everything on their lunch breaks to gossiping groups of girls taking advantage of the beverage case stocked with half-size Champagne bottles, wine "juice boxes," premium beers, Mash sodas and homemade iced Thai coffee.

What They're Serving: Chef and culinary consultant Angelo Sosa (Yumcha, Buddakan) combines years of culinary training with inspiration he gleaned from extensive travels throughout Asia to create a fast-casual restaurant that focuses on an American favorite: the sandwich. The edited menu ranges from a shredded, braised chicken topped with smoked egg salad and cilantro to glazed pork nestled inside of a Chinese bun with sweet and sour sauce to Vietnamese BBQ beef with basil mayo, carrot and kimchee. "This is not a banh-mi shop," says Sosa. "I took specific memories from while I was traveling to create a series of different sandwiches and flavors. For instance, the Fish Chaca La Vong was inspired by a dish that I had in Hanoi where fish is cooked over hot coals right in front of you. The turmeric splatters all over your shirt but the dill that they throw inside explodes with flavor and it was absolutely delicious...and so I tried basically tried to recreate the experience through using the ingredients and similar cooking techniques packed in a roll."

We Effing Loved: I have a hard time saying no to a loster roll on most days. But the fact that Sosa gave it an Asian spin made resistance futile. Lobster meat, Japanese Kewpie mayo, tarragon and crispy shallots were beautifully piled on top of a split-top hotdog bun made from lightly buttered and toasted, warm brioche. It. Was. Phenomenal. The lobster meat is flown in from Nova Scotia, tasting fresh and succulent, the crispy shallots stand in for traditional celery providing crunch, while the Kewpie mayo adds a delicately sweet umami factor. Mmmm. And the brioche blew my mind...it's a signature recipe that Sosa developed and has outsourced an unnamed bakery to produce for him. The fluffiness makes all the difference in the world, and has me thinking packaged hot dog buns should be perhaps outlawed forever. What's the point when something this good exists? Do you hear me Wonderbread? You are pointless.

As I was leaving, Sosa insisted that I take his "1,000-Year-Old Ice Cream Sandwich" to go. Now, you all know I don't eat regular ice cream. I'm lactose intolerant. For me, it's the culinary equivalent to swallowing a grenade. But...then Sosa explained where the name came from.

"In China, there is this tradition of taking an egg and burying it for a month so that when you dig it up it's all stinky and when you crack it open—the yolk is black," he began. "Actually, I always thought it was disgusting. BUT the concept was really cool." And this led him to create an ice-cream sandwich composed of thin chocolate wafers and caramel-flavored ice cream with a black caramel center that oozes out as you eat it.

Naturally, with that kind of back-story, I had to try it. Digestion be damned. It is exactly this type of creativity and thoughtfullness that is the mark of a talented chef, and why I fell in love with food in the first place. So with a foil-wrapped sample in hand, I descended to the sidewalk.

I may have been half-delirious with illness for the next two days, but the layers of taste that I encountered with each bite on that walk—from the crispy-chewy wafers to the creamy rich ice cream laced with caramel to the decadent black gold that touched my lips in the center—well I wouldn't take back that moment for all the lobster rolls in the world.

Look for a second location on St. Mark's Place later this fall.

L-l-l-l-Lola

Tab For Two: Locanda Verde
Address: 379 Greenwich St., New York, NY 10013

What to wear, Who's there: Located in the base of Robert DeNiro's Greenwich Hotel in TriBeCa, Locanda Verde exudes comfort from tip to tail. Rich wood banquettes weave a maze of miniature seating areas around a long, granite-topped bar that anchors the space. But if your eyes dizzy at the sight of so many glasses and jiggers dancing, most of the cafe tables also look out onto the street through tall French windows. Even if you score an early-bird reservation at (ahem) 6 p.m., expect it to be packed. Locals and tourists alike are on fire for Chef Andrew Carmellini and his homestyle Italian fare. This makes for a happy mix of casual-glam that leaves you free to wear whatever you feel.

What They're Serving: The reasonably priced menu doesn't skimp on portion size, evident in the piled to heaping Blue Crab Crostino dotted with jalapeño, tomato and a hint of cream or the large slab of creamy Rabbit Terrine accompanied by a sour cherry mostarda. Most all of the dishes are designed to be shared and a combination of three can be filling for even the most devoursome (real word?) duo. But if you really want to explore the menu, it takes no less than seven. Just saying.

We Effing Loved: Mexican restaurants be damned, I can confidently say that the best sangria I have ever had to date was the minty red pitcher poured at Locanda Verde. It was perfectly balanced in terms of sweetness, leaving a just a kiss of sugar behind to linger with the fruit and herb notes. Lamb Meatball Sliders with caprino and cucumber are light, springy and juicy with ragu—the sliced cucumber providing a necessary snap to contrast the soft bun. And then there were the pastas: If you order just one thing, make it the rich, meaty (a blend of pork, veal and beef), and delicately homemade My Grandmothers’ Ravioli. If you are veg, the Maltagliati with pesto and parmigiano-reggiano is a sloppy, soothing combination of oversized ribbon pasta with olives, tomatoes and crunchy pine nuts.

Electric Renaissance

Tab For Two: Gigi Trattoria
Address: Rhinebeck, NY 12571

What to wear, Who's there: If you read this morning's edition of amNY ("Eat Like a King in Dutchess County") or saw the most recent issue of O, The Oprah Magazine, then you may already know Gigi Trattoria "flaunts a flirty, fun atmosphere." Whether you sit at the casual outdoor metal tables or amid the more mellow-modern decor of high-glossed wood and scenic paintings inside, you will likely be surrounded by weekending NYC yuppies and reformed upstate hippies dressed in Dockers with Polo shirts or the female equivalent. Smart-casual, as they say.

What They're Serving: Chef Laura Pensiero has a gentle touch, adding subtle layers of flavor to soups (like a hearty fagiole), antipasti (what exactly is fennel sausage?), and the signature Gigi "skizza"—crispy flatbread pizzas topped with fresh Italian ingredients such as Shrimp, red onion and red chili flakes; Farm goat cheese, mozzarella, pear, fig paste, baby arugula and truffle oil; or a classic Margherita with tomato sauce, basil, oregano and mozzarella...to which one could add any topping they wanted, such as artichokes, for example.

We Effing Loved: The whole wheat linguine with shrimp, fennel, fresh tomato and herbs was a special and the perfect late summer lunch. Generally I find whole-wheat pastas to be gritty and rather tough to chew. But cooked not a second past al dente and combined with a creamy sauce of olive-oil and a hint of parmesan, the ribbons of linguine melted onto my tongue nearly as easily as the warmed hunks of tomato strewn next to it. And despite an overly dry Sangiovese Rosé that we would not recommend, Gigi also has a terrific selection of Italian wines (go with the big reds) and specialty cocktails for idling away the afternoon before hitting Upstate Films across the street.

Margherita Skizza with Artichokes

Whole Wheat Linguine Special

Holding Out For a Hero

Tab For Two: Frankies 457
Address: 457 Court St., Brooklyn, NY

What to wear, Who's there: If you're one of those people who still can't bring themselves to leave Manhattan and explore the bountiful borough that is Brooklyn, I have three words for you:
more.
for.
us.
There are so many fantastic restaurants and bars that I can't sneeze without hitting an artisanal baked bread or house-cured salami. Point in fact: Frankies 457. Walking into this rustic, exposed brick and tin-ceilinged pocket of Italian cuisine perfection is like discovering a secret vortex that travels directly to your fairy nonna's house. Everything is prepared in a sliver of an open kitchen that is perhaps three-people deep (and half the length of the bar) except for the crusty, craggy bread carved on a small shelf next to the deli case.

What They're Serving: Despite the tiny dimensions of this place (*they do sometimes have outdoor seating and you can rent a larger adjoining barn for private parties), it turns out BIG-flavored dishes. We began with fresh-squeezed lemonades and split a Roasted Beet and Avocado Salad with Balsamic that made for a creamy, tangy starter. Then, for our entrees we chose two sandwiches dueling for the title of most delicious on the menu: The Sicilian Tuna Salad with Arugula, Tomato and Red Onion; and the Meatball Parmigiana—complete with pignoli nuts—served on crackling-on-the-outside, chewy-on-the-inside Grandaisy Bakery Rosemary Bread. Both sandwiches were juicy and fresh and effing mouth-watering from start to finish. Should you decide to go nuts and order a Pimm's Cup, you would be in for a delightful afternoon. The secret to Frankies' Pimms? San Pellegrino Limonata. Genius.

We Effing Loved: It's always a treat when a server recommends their favorite dish to you with the disclaimer, "most people think it sounds weird, but it's actually delicious!" And that's exactly what our waiter told us when we found ourselves scouring the desserts for something to share. The dish in question? Red Wine Prunes with Mascarpone. And man was he not kidding. Warm, ruby-stained orbs, plump from a red wine sauce were spooned in the center of a little well of smooth mascarpone cheese, simultaneously rich and light. Santa Maria! These prunes know how to party!

Use Somebody

Tab For Two: Get Fresh Table & Market
Address: 370 Fifth Avenue, Brooklyn, NY 11215
718.360.8469

What to wear, who's there: This restaurant is one of a handful that have opened recently in the boutique-grocery/easy-going-cafe-with-an-upscale-menu category. In the front of the house, tables are surrounded by bookcases filled with jarred preserves, pickled vegetables, and artisanal dry goods while the opposing wall is comprised of glass refrigerators holding more precious items, like meats and cheeses. The rest of the casual smart furnishings evoke something like being in a friend's home: well-worn floorboards,  vintage water bottles, soft—but not too dim—lighting and a backyard patio where you can gossip away the night over a plate of marinated olives or radishes with homemade salted butter at picnic tables.

What They're Serving: If you're the type of indecisive diner who wrestles for hours with thought cycles like, "do I want Mexican or do I want Indian? Or maybe I want American bistro?," fret no longer. The menu at Fresh Table & Market collects dishes inspired by multiple cultures, from the Tacos Del Dia—handmade tortillas made by the chef's mother and then stuffed with juicy fillings like pulled pork or chicken—to pickled vegetables served with lavash, an Armenian flatbread,  or striped bass with a saffron-potato mash and bouillabaise sauce, you can satisfy many global cravings at once.

We Effing Loved: These lips have seen a lot of scallops in my day. But I felt as though my senses were reawakened to the succulent sea food when it was prepared in a massaman curry sauce of coconut milk and peanut with sprouts and seaweed salad served in a large seashell nested on a bed of salt and paired with a bowl of sticky white rice, fragrant with mint and thai basil. Me love it long time.

Pickled veggies with lavash cracker-bread

homemade shredded chicken taco appetizer

striped sea bass

the piece de resistance

Erase and Rewind

Tab For Two: Yushi Bento Bar
Address: 245 Park Avenue, 47th Street between Park & Lexington, NY 10167

What to wear, Who's there:
Isn't it just always the way: As soon as I had exhausted myself of my favorite lunch options by my office (Crisp and the Amish Market, if you must know), a fantastic book publicist introduced me to my new crush: Yushi Bento Bar. Situated on the inside of a mini-food-courtesque strip of three restaurants (the other two being Juan Valdez Coffee and 'wichraft, again, if you must know) at the corner of 47th St and Lexington, Yushi is an unassuming outpost for fresh, flavorful, creatively packaged Japanese staples such as sushi, noodles, soups, salads and snacks. The front of the space is occupied by an open-air deli cooler from which to select your items. The back is comprised of deep-cushioned booths and one of those rotating sushi-conveyor belts that nobody ever orders from. It's never too packed inside, but there is a steady stream of customers purchasing meals to-go...how do you say perfect in Japanese?

What They're Serving:
As I alluded to, half the fun of eating at Yushi lies in it's ingenious packaging: Edamame and salads are contained in plastic cups that you would otherwise use to suck down an Iced Grande Soy Caramel Macchiato with Extra Whip. But inside the fat hole where you'd normally stick your straw, a small vial of salad dressing has been plugged to prevent any contents from falling out. Equally as inventive are the chocolate mousse "shots" and the slick tubes of sushi rolls. Yummy combinations like Cucumber Avocado are wrapped in see-through plasticine scrolls sealed with a sticker that double as placemats once you peel them open.

We Effing Loved:
Taken as I was with the Yushi Classic Miso Soup made with miso, coriander, tofu, spring onions and wakame on my first visit, the Firecracker Miso Soup that I slurped up after my second hit and run ultimately stole my heart. It's a heartier miso soup than I've ever had before, chunky with glass noodles, sprouts, mushrooms, and a tangy-spicy lime and ginger miso broth. Each spoonful tasted like a mini vacation to Fusgushimaken. Oh Firecracker Miso Soup, our Facebook status just went from "In an Open Relationship" to "It's Complicated".

Heaven Isn't Too Far Away

Tab For Two: Table Fifty Two
Address: 52 W. Elm Street, Chicago

What to wear, Who's there: In the charming 19th century carriage house of the Biggs Mansion in windy Chicago, Chef Art Smith cherry-picked the location for his luxurious yet rustic restaurant devoted to fine Southern cooking. The entrance opens to the first-floor dining room, which features an open hearth oven, a pressed copper ceiling and a small bar area. It gets pretty crowded with suits from downtown. But they're quickly rubbing elbows with more smartly attired families and swish couples. (President Obama and the First Lady celebrated Valentine's Day here, FYI.) Upstairs, the ceilings are raised, giving the space a grander feeling. Ditto, the wrought-iron chandeliers hung with crystals resembling half-melted icicles; wainscoting dividing a large sage-green and cream striped wallpaper from a richly textured cream dado; and collected china mounted on the wall in a mammoth display. It's like visiting the rich great aunt you never had but wished you did...and Auntie Art can cook, honey. 

What They're Serving: I don't know anyone who doesn't like Southern food. The problem up North is having it prepared well and authentic. Chicago is fortunate to have Chef Smith to turn to then, when a craving for a Fried Green Tomato strikes. Just know that it will be a Fried Green Tomato Napoleon with Goat Cheese, Local Greens, and Apple Wood-Smoked Bacon artfully tiered on top. Smith is fancy like that. And while you may assume that some soul would be lost in the process of such refinement, it isn't. This is down-home-cooking that just happens to be artfully constructed. Because I am sure you are wondering: The Pan-Seared Catfish with Cheese Grits, Bacon-Braised Collard Greens, Hush Puppy and Crispy Okra is what President Obama had on his visit.

We Effing Loved: To start the meal, Chef Smith secured our table with a plate of Goat Cheese Buttermilk Biscuits that made me feel so guilty I thought for sure I was going to be arrested by the end of the meal. Served warm, the texture was somehow doughy and spongy and fluffy at the same time, with a lightly crisped outer shell where sprinkled cheese had turned golden brown and a beautiful lingering tug as I tore off savory, tangy (from the buttermilk, no doubt) pieces of it to shove in my mouth. Oh, but my crimes against my lactose intolerant digestive system did not cease there. I also had the Three-Cheese Macaroni, which Chef Smith presents in a small white bowl with a thick, gooey layer of cheese stretched and melted across the top not unlike a bowl of French Onion Soup. Yeah, that was right about when I started singing Jailhouse Rock. Once you puncture the shell of cheese, your fork meets a creamy mass of pasta and bechamel and stringy goodness. And it was worth all the Lactaid in China.